Fashion: Six collar styles to give your neckline a facelift

Remember the regal pictures of Marie de’ Medici—queen of France and second wife of King Henry IV—which show her wearing an upright collar that opened in the front? The 16th century collar was later christened the Medici collar in her honour.

Further down the ages the collar was rarely seen on women’s garments. Very few cultures, except in areas that experience extremely cold weather, have collars on women’s dresses.

“Collars for women tend to be more sexy and, particularly in India, they tend to be low-cut because of the heat. Having said that, in the northern part of the country, women are known to wear collars, such as on the phirans of Kashmiri women. However, the collar was really meant for menswear,” observes veteran fashion designer Ritu Kumar.

“Collars are mainly worn by women in Europe. For instance, their coats have collars. In India we’ve always known men’s garments with collars, such as the Nehru or the Chinese collar. But today we do see a lot of collars on women’s garments,” she adds.

Here are six different kinds of collars to flaunt on everything from jackets and jumpers to formal ethnic wear.

The sailor collar

This is a variation of the primarily ceremonial collar seen on the uniforms of the British Royal Navy, which originated in the 1860s.

Keep in mind: “This collar adds a timeless vintage and nautical vibe to an outfit. So, it’s essential to pair it correctly to complete the look. It works great with high-waisted trousers, peg skirts, short ruffle tennis skirts and mom jeans,” says fashion designer Pallavi Singhee of the label Verb.

What to avoid: “Fashion trends like ripped jeans, punk details and neons that might be too far from the collar’s delicate vintage look,” she says.

To shine in this: “It is important to accessorise in a way to complement the collar rather than take the focus off it. So keep it vintage and ‘80s-inspired,” she adds.

The Peter Pan collar

Inspired by renaissance art, this collar derives its name from the popular Disney character. It has its origins in the art and costumes of that period and now resonates with the prevalent collar trend.

Keep in mind: “To curate a look that has balance­­—the collar should be the dramatic element and rest of the outfit must be pared down,” says fashion and costume designer Nachiket Barve.

What to avoid: “Busy prints and large volumes in a skirt,” he says.

To shine in this: “Pair a top with this collar with tailored trousers and dramatic bracelets,” says Nachiket.

The cowl

The collar in the picture is a stylised cowl, which was a major trend in the West during the 1990s, especially within American pop culture and Vivienne Westwood’s dramatic, fabulous runway looks that featured a burst of colours and prints.

Keep in mind: “Being a draped style, the cowl collar enhances the body by drawing attention to its lines. Avoid too much drama in the rest of the look, like loud prints or a busy colour scheme that can become a distraction from the wearer’s personality and look confused,” recommends designer Rahul Mishra.

What to avoid: “Too many accessories. Remember less is more,” he cautions.

To shine in this: “Style it with minimal separates like wide-legged trousers, a pencil skirt or even a nice form-flattering georgette sari,” Rahul suggests.

The winged collar

This collar style dates back to the formal shirts of the late 19th century. It became a standard style and continued to be worn after World War I. Now, it’s made an appearance on jackets in shearling fabric.

Keep in mind: “A layered look that mirrors the geometry of the jacket works well as it helps balance out the emphasised angularity of the collar,” says celebrity stylist Rishi Raj.

What to avoid: “Round necks or mandarin collars, or even U-shaped ones. Stick to V-necks and other layered collars,” he adds.

To shine in this: “Keep the accessories clean and contemporary. Go the minimal, metallic way to level up this look,”Rishi advises.

The fur-notch collar

Used in luxury fur clothing, this collar style gained popularity since being used on women’s jackets in 1920. Fur had been a luxury for royalty since the 1300s and became easier and cheaper to buy after the 1950s. With the focus shifting towards faux fur now, Kim Kardashian is often seen wearing this style of collar.

Keep in mind: “If you are wearing something so exotic, keep it very simple and subdued by wearing just a nude T-shirt or a white sleeveless tee inside,” says fashion designer Amy Billimoria.

What to avoid: “Something very high-end or printed with this collar,” she cautions.

To shine in this: “Team it with a slight bling element by wearing boots if you are stepping out at night,” she says.

The Chinese-style collar

This is a light variation of the Chinese collar but done on a very soft fabric for women. It became particularly popular with women at weddings.

Keep in mind: “Worn by a slightly older, classic woman, this has a certain formality. It’s also a kind of a classic with a kurta kind of cut,” says fashion designer Ritu Kumar.

What to avoid: “Wearing neckpieces with it, unless it’s a long necklace,” she recommends.

To shine in this: “Team it with a chunni or orhni to make it look less severe,” Ritu says.

From HT Brunch, April 9, 2022

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